Laminate Flooring Install Quick Start Guide

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY:

I’ve installed countless floors in my career. Some took weeks to complete they were so hard and complex.

Imagine, however, having a bare subfloor and just HOURS later (yes, hours!) you could be moving in the furniture. It’s possible with laminate flooring.

This project is PERFECT for a beginner, that’s why I rate it at two out of five hammers.

The following photo is linked to the EXACT product I installed in my man cave / office / ham radio shack. It was FANTASTIC:

This is the exact product I have in my man cave. You'll trick 9 out of 10 people. They'll think it's reclaimed oak from a barn. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO HAVE THIS DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.

I remember when laminate flooring was introduced in the late 1990s. It was not bad, but it’s now a real player. There have been significant technological improvements in the clear coating and the replication of the actual wood or stone flooring that’s being imitated.

If you’re interested in learning more about the cost estimates for laminate flooring I have an article here.

Watch the video below unless you’ve come here from YouTube having already watched my video.

Be sure to look at the RELATED CONTENT links at the bottom of this page. Lots of goodies there for you.

REQUIRED TOOLS & MATERIALS:


Armstrong Laminate Flooring			Wide Pry Bar
Circular Saw			Framing Square
10-Inch Double-Bevel Miter Saw			Topographic Map Bandanas
Tape Measure			Safety Glasses
Tim's Favorite Tools

TIPS

Crazy as this sounds, STOP and read the written instructions that came with your flooring. Just Do It.
SECRET TIP - If you want your laminate floor to turn out nearly perfect, the subfloor MUST be flat. This doesn’t mean LEVEL. It means there can’t be humps, dips, low or high spots in the floor.
Fix the humps and bumps in your subfloor. Fill with thinset used to set ceramic tile. Asphalt shingles with the granules turned DOWN can be used too. Glue them down with caulk so they don’t move.
Check the wall you’re starting against to make sure it’s STRAIGHT. Most walls are NOT straight. Use a taught string line to check it. If you have a dip in the wall that’s greater than the combined thickness of your baseboard and toe stripping, you’ll have to scribe the first row. UGH!
Maintain the 1/4-inch gap between the flooring and the walls. Laminate floors move baby!
Use strips of 1/4-inch material, not little loser pieces. Always place a long strip at each butt joint of flooring. This helps keep flooring STRAIGHT.
If using a circular saw to make cuts, cut with finished face pointing DOWN to prevent chipping. When possible, use a power miter box saw.
Inspect each piece of flooring before installing. Look for defects on the finish and make sure the tongues and grooves are NOT damaged.
Maintain the 1/4-inch spacing when you cut around outside corners and doorways.
The rest is easy! Send me photos of your installed floor. Leave comments on my YouTube videos if they helped you!
Celebrate your Victory!

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