Ceramic Tile Shower Seat Tips

Shower Seat Permanent Installations

If you have ever had the pleasure (misfortune!) of demolishing an old ceramic tile job, you will understand why the tiles rarely, if ever, fell off the walls. The tiles were placed in a cement matrix - basically set in stone. Years ago, the tile setters mixed up a fine grained concrete mix and floated this mixture over wire lath. The tiles were then set soon after using a cement paste. The tile and concrete became one and the same.

You can achieve similar long-lasting results by using cement board. This product is 1/2 inch thick and is nailed directly to the wall studs surrounding the tub or shower area. If you use thinset adhesive(Portland cement, silica sand and often acrylic bonding agents), you will have the same long-term success that you see in those 100 year old houses. You can also get excellent results using the spread-on organic adhesives sold in cans or buckets.

Installing ceramic tile over regular drywall or the moisture resistant drywall is not a permanent solution. Water readily penetrates the grout seams in ceramic tile. This water then begins to degrade the paper covering of the drywall. Once this happens, the tile falls from the wall.

Plumb Walls and a Level Tub

Ceramic tile is very uniform in size and shape. The vertical and horizontal lines will readily telegraph a wall that is out of plumb. Tilting tubs will also be obvious. It is vitally important for you to take your time when framing walls and installing tubs or showers. Make sure they are plumb and level. If you are remodeling, you may have to cut long, thin shims to add to wall studs. You can also scab a straight 2x4 along side an existing out of plumb stud to create a plumb surface. The choice is yours. Plumb corners make cutting tiles easy. The dimensions are always the same!

Vapor Barriers

If your tub or shower is on an exterior wall, I would definitely install a vapor barrier on the studs before installing the cement board. This vapor barrier should extend over the up-turned flashing lip of the tub or shower. This way, if condensation develops on the vapor barrier, it will drain back into the tub. Use a heavy six mil vapor barrier.

Centerlines and the First Row

I always start laying tile with the wall that you look at when you face the tub or shower. This allows you to mask any cutting errors when installing the final corner tiles on the side walls. Draw a plumb, vertical center line that splits the back wall into two sections. Without using adhesive, see how the tiles work towards one corner. If you end with a thin sliver, you should lay your first tile centered on top of drawn center line. This will require you to shift the starting line over one-half a tile, but that is OK. The result is that you will end with larger pieces going into each corner. Try this and you will see what I mean.

Never lay your first row of tile on top of the tub or shower surface. These surfaces are almost never perfectly level. They often have a twist from the manufacturing process. I like to start approximately two inches up from the edge. I draw a perfectly level line and then tack a thin piece of wood lattice trim on the line. This little shelf supports the tile during installation.

Side walls do not use a center line. You determine where your trim tile goes first. Draw a vertical line that represents the grout line between the trim tile and the first column of tile. Begin laying tile from this line towards the inside corner of the back wall you just completed. Trim tiles are installed after all full and cut tiles are in place.

Installing Tile

I prefer to install as many full tiles as possible at once. I then do all my cutting at the same time. The job seems to proceed much faster. If you do this, do not allow mastic or glue to sit exposed where the cut tiles will go. The glue will "skin" over and not hold the tiles. Use a putty knife to remove excess glue from these areas. When installing the cut tiles, simply apply glue to the back of the tile and press into place.

Applying the Right Amount of Mastic

Mastic application is critical. Too little and the tile will fall off the wall. Too much and the surface of your job will look like a storm tossed ocean. You control the amount of glue by using the correct notched trowel. Correct pressure and angle is also critical. You must press hard against the cement board and keep the trowel at a 45 degree angle. When the coverage is correct, you will be able to see through to the cement board in each furrow left by the trowel. Be sure that you use the correct trowel size. Most 4x4 wall tiles require a 1/4 by 1/4 inch V-notched trowel. The tile manufacturer will have instructions concerning trowel size. Read them.

Grouting

Grouting is simple. Water is both your friend and enemy. You need to use water to rinse excess grout, but a sponge that is too wet will dilute the remaining grout, making it weak and prone to failure. Always squeeze as much water as possible from the sponge when striking the joints.

You will need to rinse the sponge numerous times. I would guess that I rinse a sponge no less than 100 times for an average tub grout job. Use a grout sponge. These sponges have very small holes and rounded corners. Sharp edge sponges will dig grout from the grout lines. If the tile looks clean while wet you are OK. The slight haze that remains will be removed in eight hours with a cloth.

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