Foundation Height

Posted on by Tim Carter
foundation height

This simple drawing shows that a foundation must be 18 inches higher than the highest point of grade on the lot within 10 feet of the foundation. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Foundation Height TIPS

Did Dead Builders Know Best Foundation Height?

If we could conjure up the spirits of several custom home builders who've been dead for about 100 years, I am afraid they'd be most disappointed.

No doubt they would shake their heads when they gazed upon house after house in the modern suburbs in many cities that had the top of their foundations skimming just above the final grade of the soil that surrounds each house.

In fact, we might even hear them mutter, "What was that builder thinking..."

History, Legend & Myth

Did you read J.R.R. Tolkien's book Lord of the Rings? It was made into a great three-part movie.

At the beginning of that movie is a fascinating quote taken from J.R.R. Tolkien's book:

"And some things that should not have been forgotten were lost. History became legend. Legend became myth. And for two and a half thousand years, the ring passed out of all knowledge."

 

The Lord Of The Rings

You can discover much about life and how to build castles that withstand dragon fire watching this movie. Great love story too. CLICK HERE NOW TO ORDER THIS MOVIE IN ANY FORMAT.

For the most part that's what's happened with the knowledge of foundation heights. Who knows, I may be the last bastion of this nugget of building gold.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local builders. Show them this column.

There are many things about building that are taken to the grave with builders and remodelers. It's unfortunate because most don't spend the time to record what they know for future generations.

The Internet, with comments on pages and videos, is helping to slow the loss of information, but the trouble there is much of the information is incorrect, incomplete or written so poorly as you can't understand what's being said.

When Should I Talk to My Builder About Foundation Height?

If you're in the planning stages of building your new home and/or are talking to various custom home builders about a new home, you need to talk about foundation heights. This topic simply deals with the distance from the top of the foundation down to the finished grade that touches up against the foundation and the soil within 10 feet of the foundation.

It may not seem important to you now, but once you are moved in and it rains hard for several days, you will wish foundation height would have been just above "How big will my kitchen be?" on your top-ten wish list.

What is the Ideal Foundation Height?

Look at the below crude drawing I made. The bottom of the green swale should be about ten feet away from your house foundation wall.

 

grade level drawing

I made this drawing. You can see the foundation wall with a typical sill plate and floor joist. The red line is the lot before the excavator shows up. The top of the foundation should end up 18 inches ABOVE the red line. Use the dirt from the hole to create the slope away from the foundation. (C) Copyright 2017 Tim Carter ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

How Smart Were Old Builders?

I'm constantly amazed at the intelligence of many old builders who have departed this world. It's indeed a shame more builders do not "build them like they used to".

Drive around the older sections of your city and you'll undoubtedly see homes where the first floor level is two or even three feet above the ground outside the home. Often these homes have steps that lead up to the front door. They often have dramatic front porches where you can sit and gaze down upon the gorgeous neighborhood.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local builders. Show them this column.

Why Were Old House Foundations Higher Out of the Ground?

I firmly believe this was done for several reasons. Powered excavating equipment was not available or readily available. It was less expensive to dig shallower foundations.

foundation height

This is an old stone foundation on Mt. Desert Island in Maine. Note how high out of the ground it is. Smart builder indeed! Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Foundation walls that protruded above grade allowed basement windows to exist without the modern sunken semi-circular window wells. These exposed windows could let in more light and ventilation into the basement. The dirt removed from the excavation could be gently graded away from the house to create wonderful positive drainage.

Did Wood Rot Happen?

Rainwater that splashed on homes rotted those close to the ground. It didn't take smart builders long to figure out that if you kept the wood up about 30 inches from the ground, you'd have minimal, or no, rot.

This had to be another motivation to keep the foundation up out of the ground.

Are Newer Home Foundations Too Deep?

But scan the new homes in subdivisions today and you'll rarely see a home built this way. Is the new method better?

I think it's debatable, especially in light of the modern uniform building codes. The codes speak to foundation heights.

Typically the codes say the amount of exposed foundation should be between a minimum of 4 and 6 inches above the finished soil that touches up against the foundation. Remember this is a minimum distance.

The building code is actually a set of minimum standards. Many homeowners think just the opposite. Building your home to the code standards is like getting a 70-percent grade on a test.

What Does the Building Code Say?

Furthermore, the code will often state the ground around the foundation must slope away from the house. Read this code section and it will almost always say the ground must fall 6 inches vertically for the first 10 feet of horizontal distance away from the foundation. What do all of these numbers have to do with foundation height you might ask? Plenty!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local builders. Show them this column.

Who Establishes Ground Height in New Subdivisions?

The developer of a subdivision establishes the finish grade of the lots before construction begins. The word grade references the level of all the ground on your building lot before you start to dig a hole for the foundation.

Builders need to be sensitive to these established grades. A good builder determines the highest point of ground near the home and sets the top of the foundation in relation to this high point.

What Happens if My Foundation is Too Low?

When a new home builder decides to set the foundation height too low, all sorts of problems happen. The ground around the home tends to be very flat.

Positive drainage is either minimal or may not meet code. Sidewalks leading from driveways to the front door can act as dams trapping water movement away from a house.

These sidewalks become a barrier to establishing the needed positive drainage away from the house as they sit too high.

Can Mulch Create Water Dams?

The problem gets even worse when the landscapers show up. They'll often mulch in these areas and create negative drainage. Because mulch is piled up, the water in some areas around your home may actually drain towards the foundation!

You'd think this is all common sense, but the older I get the more I believe common sense is something that needs to be taught, not acquired by experience.

What is the Best Foundation Height?

Typically, I'd set all of my foundation heights about 18 inches higher than the highest point of grade within ten feet of the finished foundation. Doing this allowed me to create 12 or more inches of fall within the first ten feet of horizontal distance.

It also produced 6 inches of exposed foundation above the soil around the home. Remember, you can put the foundation up higher to get more slope!

Are Gentle Slopes Possible?

I'd use some of the excavated soil to create gentle slopes away from the house in as many directions as possible. When done properly, these slopes did not interfere with the grade established by the developer.

Houses built in this fashion do not appear to sit high out of the ground. They appear stately as they sit on the artificial rise you create with the dirt that's brought up from digging the foundation.

What's more, the house sports positive drainage from all sides so that flooding rains do not inundate the basement space.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local builders. Show them this column.

Column NH001

Asphalt Patching

Posted on by Tim Carter
asphalt patch

Use asphalt patch in a bag to fill a shallow pothole. Cold patch asphalt can work well if installed correctly. ©2017 Tim Carter

"The key to successful pothole repair is preparation, and the use of the right materials."

Asphalt Patch TIPS

DEAR TIM: My blacktop drive is in fairly decent shape except for a few potholes. I am confident that I can do the asphalt patch repairs but wonder what can one do to make a permanent patch?

The highway crews in my area don't seem to have much luck as potholes seem to reappear in a short amount of time.

Is cold patch asphalt the best material to use to fill holes in blacktop? What is the best way to repair cracks? Mary Ann M., Bowling Green, OH

DEAR MARY ANN: Patching holes in asphalt surfaces can be done successfully, if you have some time, purchase the right material, and a use a few basic tools.

Why Do Asphalt Potholes Happen in Winter?

Many potholes tend to form in cold weather after a period of snow and ice is followed by a thaw. The water that thaws and soaks into the cracks of the asphalt refreezes at night. The ice expands as it freezes and blows apart the asphalt.

Thousands of potholes can appear overnight and spread like an epidemic. Highway crews often work in adverse weather and dangerous traffic conditions. It's unrealistic to expect perfect results when many holes need to be filled in a short amount of time.

What is the Best Asphalt Patch?

The best asphalt patch is hot mix asphalt. To get the absolute best repair of the pothole, the asphalt next to the pothole must be reheated and blended into the patching material. Watch these two amazing video to see how it's done. The first video shows a larger machine, but the second video is a smaller man-powered machine you roll around!

The key to successful pothole repair is preparation, and the use of the right materials. As I said before, the best material to use for pothole repair is traditional hot mix asphalt.

This product is made at plants that mix liquid asphalt, sand and different sized gravel into a mix that flows while it is hot. As it cools, the liquid asphalt hardens producing a very durable surface.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local Asphalt Contractors who can repair or resurface your Asphalt Driveway.

It's not easy, nor is it feasible, for you to buy hot mix asphalt. If you buy a small amount, by the time you get home it will not be workable.

Is Cold Patch Asphalt DIY Friendly?

Cold patch is very DIY friendly. It comes in manageable bags and you can patch holes as small as 2 inches by 2 inches.

You need to use a new and improved cold asphalt patching compound. It's absolutely the next best thing.

cold patch asphalt

CLICK THE IMAGE to get a permanent Cold Patch Asphalt.

Do you need to patch your asphalt? Save time and money by using my Asphalt/Blacktop/Tar & Chip Installation & Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

For many years, asphalt plants have made a cold patch asphalt that was intended for temporary patching purposes. This older material was difficult to work with and the asphalt binder that coated the stone particles often stripped off in a relatively short amount of time.

When the asphalt disappeared, so did the patch. Fortunately, there have been some major advancements in cold patch asphalt technology.

Are There Newer Cold Patch Asphalt Polymers?

Yes, there are newer cold patch asphalt materials that contain polymers. The polymers increase adhesion so the cold patch sticks to the old asphalt.

New synthetic polymer adhesive chemicals are now added to the asphalt that allow the cold asphalt patching products to produce permanent repairs when installed correctly. They're easy to use and very affordable.

Does Cold Patch Flow Like Lava?

Yes, cold patch flows out of the bags slowly like lava from the Kilauea Volcano in Hawaii.

The new cold patch asphalt mixes flow readily when you use them. If you've ever seen a video of how lava creeps across the land in Hawaii, you'll know how this cold patch material flows from the bag.

The material begins a curing process as soon as it's exposed to air and it's compacted. Thicker patches of cold asphalt are not necessarily better as they possibly will require longer periods of time to fully cure and harden.

How Do You Install Cold Patch?

The best way to install cold patch is to make sure the bottom of the pothole is slightly larger than the top. This dovetail shape helps hold the patch in place much like a filling in your tooth.

Long lasting repairs require some minimal effort on your part. The key is the shape of the hole before it is repaired.

The bottom of the hole should be wider than the top of the hole when you begin to add the cold asphalt. This is how dentists ensure a tooth filling doesn't fall out.

By making the bottom of the hole bigger than the top, you create a dovetail joint much like cabinet makers have used to securely join two pieces of wood.

Mason Chisels

CLICK HERE to see an assortment of chisels that will help you shape blacktop potholes.

What Cold Patch Asphalt Chisels Are Best?

The best cold patch chisels are ones about 1.5-inches wide. I'd use a cordless hammer demolition hammer to get the job done in seconds.

cordless demo hammer

This is a great cordless demolition hammer that will accept a wider chisel to trim the sides of an asphalt pothole. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW to have it delivered to your home.

Use a chisel to create vertical faces on the sides of the hole that extend down to the solid base material or down to a previous layer of solid asphalt. Be sure to remove any loose pieces of old pavement and any dust.

What is the Minimum Cold Patch Asphalt Thickness?

The minimum thickness of patching material at any edge should be 1 inch. The preferred thickness of the patching compound is approximately 2 inches.

If you have a deep hole to repair, install angular crushed gravel in the bottom of the hole. Compact this gravel well before you add the cold patch material.

Do I Need to Use a Hand Tamper?

Yes, you should use a hand tamper to compact the asphalt patch. Coat the bottom of the tamper with diesel fuel to prevent the cold patch from sticking to it.

Tamping tools used for compacting gravel or the cold patch material are easy to handle. They're normally an 8x8-inch plate of steel. Just make sure you don't tamp your foot!

asphalt patching

CLICK THE IMAGE to see a wide variety of Steel Tampers that can compact Asphalt for repairs.

Take your time to compact it very well with a steel tamper before you add the cold asphalt patching compounds. Once the gravel is compacted, add the cold asphalt so that it slightly above the surrounding pavement, level it and use a flat steel tamper to compact it.

How Long Before You Can Drive on Asphalt Patch?

Some of the new cold asphalt products maintain that they can be driven on immediately. This is true, but as each day passes, they get harder and harder.

Avoid concentrated loads on fresh patches. Kickstands from bicycles and motorcycles can create dimples.

Automobile tires that turn while the car is stationary can also damage a brand new patch.

Should I Seal the Cold Patch?

No, do not apply asphalt sealer to the cold patch. The sealer will prevent the patch from getting hard.

Once you have completed your pothole repairs, wait a long time before you think about sealing it.

Some places say to wait at least 30 days before you apply a liquid blacktop sealer. A sealer that is applied over a fresh patch will cut off the necessary supply of air to the cold asphalt. The cold patch needs the air to cure.

If this happens, the patch can remain somewhat soft for a long period of time. If you're going to seal a cold patch, be sure the sealer has silica sand in it to fill the voids between the small cold patch aggregate.

How Do I Do Asphalt Crack Repair?

I repair asphalt cracks using an epoxy that comes in a caulking tube. I press small stones and scatter sand in the fresh epoxy to make the crack match the asphalt.

blacktop epoxy crack filler

This is the crack filled with the epoxy BEFORE the stones and sand are placed. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

As you wait for the cold patch to fully cure, take your time and clean out any cracks in the driveway area.

Remove as much loose material as possible and fill them to within one-quarter inch of the surface with a great epoxy crack filler.

Wait one week and then fill the crack to the top. Place small stones and sand in the fresh epoxy to disguise the crack. This two-step process will help to create a smooth surface at each crack location.

blacktop crack repair

Here's the fresh epoxy completely hidden by sand and stones pressed into the goo. It really works. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Old Blacktop Crack Video

Watch this video, but don't use the black goo in the caulk tube. About four years after I taped this video, I discovered a BETTER product to squirt into the crack. It's an amazing epoxy that comes in a caulk tube and is made for concrete.


But I tested it on my blacktop drive and it worked FAR BETTER than the old technology black goo. CLICK HERE to BUY the epoxy.

The epoxy you should use is demonstrated in the video below.

IMPORTANT TIP: You do want to do the SAME PROCESS you'll see in the top video with respect to pressing in small stones and sand into the epoxy so you don't see the crack once done. Be SURE TO READ the column below the second video!!!


CLICK HERE to read a recent column and see DRAMATIC before and after photos using the cool epoxy.

Companion Articles:   Tips on Patching Blacktop and Asphalt, High Performance Asphalt Repair Products, Asphalt (Blacktop) Patching Material

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local Asphalt Contractors who can repair or resurface your Asphalt Driveway.

Column 283

How to Build a Temporary Wall

Posted on by Tim Carter
simple tools

These simple tools are all that is required to build temporary walls. ©2017 Tim Carter

How to Build Temporary  Walls TIPS

DEAR TIM: I'm moving into a rental house, and need a few temporary walls to partition off a portion of the living room to create an office. My idea is to put in an L-shaped wall in the corner of the room to create a 6 x 9-foot office.

Is it possible to put in a temporary partition wall that I can take down without any damage when I move out?

Ideally, I'd like the small office to be as noise proof as possible, since I have small children. I plan to work from home. Brian M., Lafayette, CA

DEAR BRIAN: It's indeed possible to build one or more temporary walls in this new apartment that can be removed at a later date. If done properly and with care, there will be little or no evidence any walls were ever installed.

Temporary Walls Require Minimal Tools & Skills

The skills and tools required to do this are minimal. You will need several helpers at various parts of this job. The hardest part will be holding the top plate of the wall up against the ceiling as you tap a few of the vertical studs in place.

It's probably a great idea to enlist a helper and have two step ladders handy.

Don't Try Friction Fit - Walls Can Tip Over

The temporary wall partitions can be friction fit between the floor and ceiling, but I'd not recommend this. Seasonal changes in humidity and even moisture loss from the studs you use can cause the wall to come tumbling down.

You'll want to toenail the studs to the top and bottom plates. Twelve-penny common nails will be fine for this. Be sure the nails don't penetrate the finished floor beneath the bottom plate.

Secure To Ceiling

All you have to do to keep the walls from tipping over is make them fit tightly and use an occasional fastener through the top plate into the ceiling. These small holes, if you decide to make them, will need to be spackled and painted when you take down the wall.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local remodeling contractors who can build your addition or remodeling projects.

Remodelers Build Temporary Walls

Temporary wall partitions are built on a regular basis by many remodeling contractors. The walls are needed to temporarily support loads as bearing walls are removed and replaced with beams.

This is a durable extremely accurate level that will last a lifetime. CLICK THE IMAGE TO order one today.

Magic Builder Tricks - Sill Sealer

Homeowners don't want to see where the temporary wall was installed just as your landlord doesn't want to see you damage his building. I discovered many cool tricks over the years that helped me eliminate damage to finished ceilings and floors.

To protect the ceilings and walls from damage and help soundproof at the same time, I installed a one-quarter inch thick piece of foam between the rough lumber top and bottom plate faces and the surfaces they contact.

This product is sold in rolls and called sill-plate sealer. It is used to stop air infiltration between the top of a house foundation and the first piece of lumber installed on top of a foundation.

foam sill sealer

This is foam sill sealer. It matches the width of either 2x4s or 2x6s. It will seal out dust and noise. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY IT.

Foam Stops Dust & Noise

Before any cuts are made to the vertical wall studs, determine where the wall will go and take precise measurements between the floor and ceiling. Check the measurements in many locations as the floor and ceilings can be out of level.

circular saw corded

This is a wonderful corded saw. It will last generations if you care for it. It cuts very accurately. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY THIS SAW.

The foam will help you achieve a tight fit if you cut the vertical wall studs three inches less than the exact distance between the floor and ceiling. This assumes the bottom and top plates you install are each 1.5 inches thick.

Build Long Wall First

Start with your longest wall, and cut the two end vertical studs first. Have your helpers hold the top plate in position as you tap the end studs in place. If they are loose, you can close the gaps with tapered wood shims.

Drill Toenails

Once the studs fit snugly, use a drill to create angled holes at the ends of the studs that allow you to drive three-inch long drywall screws through the studs and into the top and bottom plates. The screws will lock the studs into the plates. Screws can be removed easily when it is time to remove the wall.

IMPORTANT TIP: Once you have all wall studs in place, it is time to get ready to drywall. Don't even think about installing electric in these walls as that would be a significant safety hazard. The power for your office equipment will need to come from existing wall outlets on the permanent walls.

klein-tools-tape

This is the great tape measure I have that has the fractions marked on it if you need help. It's VERY EASY on the eyes. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER ONE.

Sound Batts Keep Things Quiet

Before you drywall, install sound-batt insulation in the stud cavities. This will not eliminate noise, but it will surely help you.

sound insulation

Add these batts to keep sound transmission down between the two rooms. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER IT.

You can also help reduce noise by installing different thickness drywall on each side of the wall. Use ½ inch on one side and 5/8 inch on the other. This eliminates noise caused by sympathetic vibrations.

Do not bother taping the drywall where it contacts the walls and ceilings. Use a simple wood trim nailed to the new wall surface to hide the unsightly gap between the new drywall and finished wall and ceiling surfaces.

If you plan to install a door, consider using an exterior door that has complete weatherstripping. Noise travels through air. Regular interior doors have all sorts of air gaps between the door and the door stops on the jambs.

Be careful about hanging any cabinets on the temporary walls. This weight can make them top heavy and more likely to tip over. The L-shape of the walls gives the system a certain amount of stability, but only if the two walls are joined tightly together in the corner where they meet.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local remodeling contractors who can build your addition or remodeling projects.

Column 685

Soil Testing for New Homes

Posted on by Tim Carter
Soil Test new house

Soil Test New House | This large pile of clay soil was excavated to make room for the basement of this home. It's a strong soil and can easily support the weight of the new home. You need to check the soil even if building an A-Frame house. ©2021 Tim Carter

Soil Test New House

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are building a new home and were told by a friend that our soil testing certificate must have an official stamp. I don't see a stamp on the faxed copy I have.

Is this important? How concerned should we be about the soil under our foundation?

I see buildings near my new home that have been around for nearly 100 years and they are still standing. Should I be worried about the quality of the soil on my building lot? Shelley B., Lawton, OK

DEAR SHELLEY: The original soil testing certificate may have a faint or embossed seal that might not have been seen by the sending fax machine and/or your fax machine may not have been able to reproduce the image.

The safest thing to do is to talk with your local building inspector and see if the faxed copy is sufficient for his inspection. If it is not, then ask him what he needs to see before your builder proceeds to do any construction on the building site.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local soil engineers before you build your home.

How Many Houses are Built on Soil vs Rock?

The vast majority of homes built in the USA are built on soil, not on bedrock. Soil is a mixture of small, decayed bedrock particles; organic material such as decaying plants, wood and animals; air; and often water.

Soils vary in type, composition, and strength. The differences can be significant. Some soils are very strong and can support significant weight, while other soils are weak and compress under light loads.

The old buildings that are structurally sound that you see near your new home undoubtedly have foundations that rest on high-quality soil or the weight of the structure has been transferred deeper into the ground where good soil or rock can be found.

Can You Build on Poor Soil?

Structural and geotechnical engineers have countless solutions for erecting buildings on low-quality soil. Wide steel-reinforced concrete footings can be used as well as any number of different steel, wood and concrete vertical piers.

Piers are vertical columns that transfer the weight of a building deep down into firm soils or make direct contact with bedrock. The bottom of the building foundation rests on the top of these vertical piers much like a tabletop is supported by the table legs.

How Much Does a House Weigh?

You should be very concerned about the soil quality of your building lot. What you see on the surface is not indicative of what might be 10 or even 20 feet below the surface. Soil that feels firm under your feet may not be very strong.

Realize that houses weigh in the tens of tons. It's all a matter of how much weight per square inch the soil can support without moving down.

Are Landslide Dangers Real?

Some soils are very prone to landslides. Cincinnati, Ohio has two bedrock formations, as well as some glacial clay deposits, that cause millions of dollars of damage each year.

The Kope and Lower Fairview rock formations contain a high amount of shale rock that decomposes into a weak soil. This happens on the hillsides in the river valleys around Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky.

This is a copy of a United States Geologic Survey (USGS) geologic topographic map of the East End of Cincinnati, OH. The downtown area would be just to the left of what you see. The Kope and Lower Fairview formations are the light pink rock just above the magenta alluvium that's north of the Ohio River. (C) Copyright 2017 USGS and every US taxpayer that owns the maps. CLICK THE IMAGE TO BUY GEOLOGIC MAPS FOR YOUR AREA.

Can Blended Soils Be Bad?

Land developers might place a weaker soil on top a strong soil or vice versa. These same developers can also radically change the shape of the land with giant earth-moving equipment. Soil from high spots on a piece of land is cut away and transported to low spots.

This kind of land transformation is acceptable if it is done correctly. But sometimes developers or contractors take shortcuts.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local soil engineers before you build your home.

Is Fill In Valleys?

For example, a friend of mine discovered his house was built on top of an old, deep ravine. His lot was level because 25 feet of fill dirt had been installed in the old valley.

But the contractor who installed the dirt buried trees and other vegetation in the ravine before the dirt was installed. Five years after the house was built, large cracks developed as the soil under the house began to sink as the buried vegetation decomposed.

Do Old Maps Have Clues?

You can help identify potential problems such as these by getting copies of older topographic maps from local government agencies, local colleges that have engineering or geology departments or the United States Geological Survey.

Using these older maps, you can see if a new land development has topography matching the old maps. You may quickly discover several lots are built on top of a preexisting creek or stream.

The local government may have copies of the developer's grading plan that show you which areas were cut and which were filled.

Where Can I Get Soil Surveys?

Many local governments also have copies of soil surveys. These extremely detailed studies show the different soil types and soil characteristics for a given county.

I currently live in Belknap County in New Hampshire. CLICK or TAP HERE to see my soil map.

Many of these soil surveys tell you which soils are strong and well-drained and which ones are weak and not well suited for building sites. It is always a good idea to study a soil map or survey before you buy a particular piece of ground.

What are Expansive Clay Soils?

Some soils that are strong have other problems that can wreak havoc on new homes. Certain clay soils are highly expansive and contractive. This means they swell and shrink in response to moisture content.

The soils move so much and so dramatically that they can tear a new home or slab apart with little effort.

Structural & Soil Engineers

Structural engineers know how to build foundations to resist this movement. In addition to a reinforced foundation, it is a good idea to install an irrigation system under the foundation so water can be slowly and regularly injected into the soil during periods of dry weather.

If the soil thinks it is raining at the surface because the moisture content stays the same, the soil stays the same shape and size and does not stress the foundation of the home.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local soil engineers before you build your home.

Column 606

Fire Stop Construction

Posted on by Tim Carter
stud wall fire break

Older homes often have blocks of wood in the walls such as this one. They stop the vertical movement of fire and hot gases so that fires do not extend at break-neck speed through house walls.

Fire Stop Construction TIPS

DEAR TIM: Recently, I was adding new electrical wiring in my 80 year-old home. I discovered that it did not have any fire stopping or fire blocks within the walls.

Does the building code require me to install fire blocks at this time? Are they necessary?

Is there an alternative material other than adding solid wood blocking? Can I use foam? Gary F., Knoxville, TN

DEAR GARY: Talk with any seasoned firefighter and they will tell you that fire stops or fire blocks within walls are both life and property savers.

Simple Blocks Save Lives

The reason fire stopping is part of the modern building codes is not an accident or an exercise to waste lumber. Many people have died and others have been seriously injured in older structures that did not have this simple framing component installed as the house was built.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies that specialize in fire prevention.

fire wall stop

The horizontal double 2x4s on top of the vertical studs create firestopping in modern wall systems. Once this wall is covered with drywall, you can imagine how each wall cavity will be sealed and separate from the once next to it.

Chimneys

A fire stop, when properly installed, does exactly what it says. It stops the spread or advancement of fire from one section of a structure to another. The second house I owned had balloon framing and this type of construction is a firefighter's worst nightmare.

Old framing created countless chimneys on exterior walls. You could actually go up into the third floor attic of that house and drop a stone or coin and it would end up on the basement floor seconds later.

If a fire broke out in the basement, the flames would be sucked up into the walls and blast out like a blowtorch in the attic space. If fire blocking or stopping is not in place, the space between each of the wall studs acts like its own high-velocity chimney.

Block Air Flow

But imagine what happens if you do put a solid piece of wood at the bottom and top of the wall in between all of the wall studs in this house. The bottom block stops the fire from getting into the wall cavity to begin with.

If a fire starts within the wall, the top block stops the fire from getting into the attic. It's important to add solid wood blocking as well if floor joists intersect a wall so that the fire can't go up a wall and then sideways in between floor or ceiling joists.

Modern Methods

Modern building methods create effective instant fire stopping or fire blocks. The continuous top and bottom wall plates at the ends of wall studs create this life-saving feature.

Once a wall is covered with drywall and or plywood/OSB on both sides, the covering material creates separate sealed compartments between each stud cavity. Nothing can get from one stud cavity to the other unless you cut a hole in either a wall stud or the top and bottom wall plates.

Tough To Add

Usually the building code is not retroactive. If this was the case, virtually every existing home in the USA would be in violation of the building code each time the code was upgraded.

In most cities and towns, a house only needs to meet the building code that was in force at the time it was built. That being said, you must check with your local building department to see what laws they have in place.

Major Remodel Issue

Sometimes if a major remodeling job happens at a house, the building department may make you upgrade certain very important aspects of the house. But once again, each city and town has their own set of rules, so you must see what is required in your locality.

Blocking Batts

Some building officials will allow you to install fireproof batts that function like solid wood blocking. The batts stop the drafting of air and combustion gasses in a wall cavity. If you do attempt to use foam, be sure it is approved for fire stopping.

Some foam materials are highly flammable and produce toxic gas as they burn. Fireproof caulking is also widely available to stop drafting through holes and cracks.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies that specialize in fire prevention.

Sprinklers

If it's too costly and impractical to install fire stopping, you may look at a different alternative. Why not stop the fire from spreading by extinguishing it before it can spread into a wall cavity? You can do this with residential fire sprinklers.

Once a sprinkler head is activated, it can often put out a fire in less than a minute. You may discover it is far less costly and much less intrusive to install sprinklers in strategic locations where fires commonly start.

Fire Prevention Officer

Talk with your local fire department fire prevention officers and let them tell you the top ten places fires start in a residential home. Have them do a fire inspection of your home at the same time to target places where fire danger is very high.

Soffit Safety

Installing fire blocking in new homes is very critical where soffits and tray ceilings are used as design features. If you do not understand the principal behind fire stops and fire blocks, it is wise to have a professional install them.

Fire Stop Foam

Holes created by plumbers, heating contractors and electricians need to be filled to stop drafting. Expanding foams do a marvelous job.

fire stop foam

Here's a product that fills gaps fast and it's easy to work with. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY IT.

Approved Materials

Always use approved materials for fire stops. Years ago regular caulk was considered fine by many building inspectors. CLICK HERE to see an assortment of different fire stop caulks.

Fire Stop Caulk

Here's a great brand name fire stop caulk.

fire stop caulk

This is a code-approved fire stop caulk. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY IT.

But now many code officials like to see special fireproof caulks used instead of commodity caulk you use to fill cracks before painting. Some of the code-approved caulks are colored a deep red so that inspectors know the right caulk was used. These special caulks are not too expensive and they are very effective.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies that specialize in fire prevention.

 

Column 544

Cutting Crown Molding

Posted on by Tim Carter

cutting crown molding

Cutting Crown Molding TIPS

Cutting crown molding is simple once you think it through.

The easiest way to get your head around crown molding is for you to watch a few of my videos.

They're all about cutting crown molding.

Each video has one or two tips, so watch them all.

Be sure to watch the one about fancy corner cuts. That's a detail you should try because only a small percentage of people take the time to make these two extra cuts.

The fancy corners will wow all your friends, neighbors and anyone that looks up at your gorgeous molding.

CLICK HERE to get FREE and FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who install crown molding.

Crown Molding Videos

I don't know about you but I am ready to get to work.

Test Pieces

If you want to have great success and tight miter joints, then the best thing to do is start to cut the test pieces you saw me use in the videos above.

I'd make each piece about 14 inches long.

You'll need about twelve pieces total so that means you'll need about a 16-foot piece of crown to make all of them.

Inside Corner Test Pieces

I've discovered over the years that you need to cut the inside corner test pieces at the following angles. You need one set of each, meaning a left and right side.

  • 43 degrees
  • 44 degrees
  • 45 degrees

Outside Corner Test Pieces

The outside corner sets need to be:

  • 45 degrees
  • 46 degrees
  • 47 degrees

Mix & Match

You'll quickly discover that both inside and outside corners are not square. It's rare that you'll get a corner to have two 45-degree cuts where the miter joint is as tight as possible.

More often than not, one side of an inside corner will be a 45 degree cut and the other side might be 43 degrees! This happens because the walls are not perfectly straight.

CLICK HERE to get FREE and FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who install crown molding.

Coping Corners

Ever talk politics or religion with someone? There's a reason why your parents told you NOT TO DO IT.

The reason is simple. Politics and religion are core building blocks of a person's reality. It defines their inner being.

If you challenge that, the average person gets very defensive. The inner being is something that's guarded like the crown jewels.

Coping inside crown molding corners ranks number three for finish carpenters. Some carpenters SWEAR it's the only way to make a tight miter joint.

Guess What?

To make a coped joint you need to make the correct compound cut on the molding so the coping saw has a line to follow.

How do you know the right line to create? Is it 43, 44 or 45 degrees?

This is why the test-piece method that I developed is so much better.

If you have two identical rooms to put crown in, I'll have my room finished and ready for paint while the other carpenter is still working with his saw on the third coped joint.

If he doesn't use test pieces, he'll be guessing at the intersection angle.

We both have to make end cuts. I'll have mine done first time and be nailing away while he's getting ready to cope, rasp, check for fit and rasp some more.

 

Would you like step-by-step photos and instructions that show you how I install crown molding anywhere in a home?  If so, you might want my Instant Download Crown Molding eBook.

But, if you want to actually see me install crown molding in all the same places while watching an action-packed interactive DVD that was filmed in High Definition, then you may want my Crown Molding DVD.

 

CLICK HERE to get FREE and FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who install crown molding.

Column B234

Concrete Slabjacking Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter
Concrete Slabjacking

©2017 Tim Carter

Concrete Slabjacking TIPS

  • Soil under slabs can sink
  • Compacting soil is a must
  • Slabjacking usually a better deal
  • Concrete slurry is common filler
  • Expanding foams are good fillers

DEAR TIM: The concrete patio on my new home is sinking. It used to tilt away from the house. Now it tilts back towards the house.

A similar thing is happening to the concrete slab inside my neighbor's garage.

What do you think caused this to happen? Could it have been prevented? Is there a way to fix the problem, other than installing new concrete? S.W.

DEAR S. W.: There is a very good possibility that both concrete slabs were installed on poorly compacted fill dirt. Sub-surface erosion and shrinking soils are also possibilities. Fill dirt is almost always placed along side of house and garage foundations after the foundation work is completed.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors that do slabjacking. It could save you lots of money.

Compaction A Must

Rarely does a builder take the time to compact this dirt. Mother Nature will do the job, but she sometimes takes years to complete the task.

Void Spaces

Soils consist of solid particles and the spaces (voids) between these particles. The void spaces can be filled with either water and/or air. Void spaces are great for grass, bushes and trees.

However, void spaces in soil can cause big problems for buildings and concrete slabs. Concentrated loads, such as buildings or slabs can literally squeeze air and water from soils. When this happens, the soil sinks and the buildings or slabs follow closely behind.

Self-Compacting Fill

Your problem could have been avoided. Instead of installing fill dirt, your builder could have installed granular fill such as sand or a sand and gravel mix. These materials can be compacted quite easily with a hand held vibratory compactor. This material should also be used to fill trenches that cross sidewalks and driveways.

Pea gravel is a great self-compacting fill material. It's small rounded rocks about the size of green peas. Think about how tight marbles compact if put into a box or are otherwise constrained. The same is true for pea gravel.

If you use a granular fill that's got sand in it, be sure to add water when compacting to really drive the small sand down further into the fill material.

Pinning Slabs

Your builder also could have pinned your slab to your house foundation. This process involves drilling holes into your foundation and inserting steel bars (pins). A network of inexpensive steel reinforcing bars are then fastened to these pins.

The concrete patio or slab is then poured with this steel roughly in the center of the concrete. Should the soil beneath the slab settle or sink, the slab stays in place, supported by the pins. Do not use this method for structural slabs (those that support the weight of a structure or machine).

Haunches

Slabs next to foundations can rest on haunches. These are just like shelf supports that are cast as part of the concrete when the foundation is poured. They're often used to support front and back-porch slabs.

Local Contractors

If you are fortunate enough to have a slabjacker in your area, you should not have to replace the concrete. CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors that do slabjacking. It could save you lots of money.

Slurry

These individuals can float a slab back to its original position by pumping a mixture of sand, cement, fly ash, and other additives beneath your slab.  Not all companies use the same product to lift the concrete.

Foam Fillers

You may find a company or two that pump two fast-reacting chemicals that combine and expand under the concrete slab. These chemicals form a structural polyurethane foam that is unaffected by water that may seep under the slab.

Foam is a great material. Just be sure the foam can handle the weight you intend to apply to the slab.

2-Inch Holes

To install the mixtures or chemicals under a tilted or fallen slab, they simply drill strategically placed holes into the slab. Using a portable pump and flexible hoses, they fill these holes with the special mixture.

Lifting a slab using this method can often be accomplished in a few hours. Often the cost to perform this service is less than half that of replacing a new slab.

Benefits

There are numerous benefits to slabjacking. It can be done in virtually any weather. The material injected beneath the slab provides a strong base. There is little or no disruption to landscaping.

Nothing needs to be moved off the slab, as the pump can lift the weight of the slab and anything you have placed on it. This should be great news for your neighbor!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors that do slabjacking. It could save you lots of money.

 

Column 086

Cutting Crown Molding Inside Corner

Posted on by Tim Carter
cutting crown molding inside corner

Cutting crown molding is hard because of that void space behind the molding. All other moldings you work with don't have this missing wood. (c) 2018 Tim Carter

"What you're forgetting is the crown molding, once installed, is not laying flat. The cut lines on crown molding are compound cuts just like roof rafters that contact a hip or valley rafter."

Cutting Crown Molding - Inside Corners

DEAR TIM: I need to know how to cut crown molding. So far, I have wasted four long lengths.

The joints look good once cut but when held up in the corners of the room there are huge gaps. I have a high-quality power miter box saw so the problem is obviously me.

Once the molding is cut correctly, how do you easily and securely fasten the crown molding to the walls and ceiling? I don't want to mess up my new paint job. Chuck W., Port Huron, MI

DEAR CHUCK: I must admit this is one area of finish carpentry that's very similar to a magic show.

How to Cut Crown Molding - Is it Hard?

It's not hard to cut crown molding. You just need to hold the molding up against the fence a certain way in a standard miter box saw.

I can't tell you how many homeowners have watched me and a helper install crown molding easily and quickly. Then, several months later, I get a frantic call from them as they are trying to mimic my performance.

They're stuck just like you. Just like with most magic tricks, the secret is simple and it just takes a little practice to master the illusion. Soon you'll amaze yourself, your friends and neighbors with your skills.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local carpenters who specialize in crown molding.

how to cut crown molding

This is a compound miter saw you can use to cut crown molding. It's not required as a normal miter saw will work just fine. CLICK THE PHOTO NOW to have this saw at your home in days. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Crown Molding Requires a Compound Cut

You're having trouble because you're cutting the crown molding in the same fashion as you'd probably cut baseboard or window or door casing. I can see why this happens.

What you're forgetting is the crown molding, once installed, is not laying flat. The cut lines on crown molding are compound cuts just like roof rafters that contact a hip or valley rafter.

Cutting Crown Molding Videos

Watch all these videos. Each one has some different info and tips. Make sure you watch the one below about fancy corners. WOW!

They were taped some years ago, but the information is rock solid. Once you watch them, you'll understand everything else in this column. If not, I owe you a mocha chip ice cream cone from Aglamesis in Cincinnati, Ohio.


Do You Cut Crown Molding Like Baseboard?

Baseboard trim and window and door case moldings are flat pieces of wood stock with a profiled face. Crown molding looks nearly identical. But look a little closer.

Crown molding has small angled faces as well as a large flat spot on the back of the profiled face. This is done by design.

I happen to call these small flat areas the foot and shoulder. Other carpenters may have a different name.

What is the Foot and Shoulder of Crown?

The angled cuts on the back of the trim are actually oriented at 90 degrees to one another. The foot is supposed to rest on the wall and the shoulder contacts the ceiling.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local carpenters who specialize in crown molding.

What's the Best Way to Practice Cutting Crown Molding?

The best way to practice is to cut a few scrap pieces of crown molding. Do this until you get the hang of it.

Take one of your ruined pieces of molding and cut a one-foot-long piece. Get on a step ladder and hold the piece of scrap up to the ceiling and look down the back of the small scrap.

Adjust t so the foot and shoulder touch the surfaces with no gap at all. 

Note how the back of the crown molding does not touch the wall surface. Once you understand this relationship, the rest of the job is easy.

Does the Miter Box Resemble My Ceiling and Wall?

Your miter box has a flat machined table area and a vertical fence that you use as a guide. The vertical fence happens to be oriented at 90 degrees to the flat table surface.

In other words, your saw mimics your wall/ceiling relationship.  The issue is, the saw is upside down as the table of the saw represents your ceiling.

How Do You Cut Crown Molding Corners?

You cut and inside and outside crown molding corners at the exact same time when you hold the molding in the miter saw the correct way. It's magic I tell you!

When you cut the trim that frames windows and doors, you typically put the back of the molding flat on the table of the saw.

In this case, the flat bottom of the saw is representing the wall of your home. You swing the saw to 45 degrees and make the cut.

When you do this on another piece of trim cutting the opposite 45-degree angle, the two pieces of trim will meet nicely at the upper corner of a window or door.

If you're installing baseboard that's not tall, you place the back of the trim against the vertical saw fence. This vertical face now represents the actual wall the baseboard will be nailed to. You make your 45-degree cuts and all is well.

Note when the casing and baseboard are against the wall, there's no massive void space behind them. That's why they're so easy to cut in the saw.

If Crown Was Solid You'd Get It Right all the Time

If crown molding was solid, it would be easy to cut. But it's not.

You need to hold the crown molding in the saw as if it was solid. That's where the foot and shoulder come in.

Those two flat areas represent the flat faces of the crown molding that would meet at a 90-degree corner if all that extra wood was still there.

How To Cut Crown Molding Inside Corner

You cut a crown molding inside corner the exact way you see me do it in this video. Watch it:

To create perfect crown molding cuts, you just hold the crown upside down in the saw as if the saw fence/table represents the ceiling/wall intersection. WATCH THE ABOVE VIDEOS to see how this is done.

Do You Need a Nailing Strip?

It's a good idea to install a triangular nailing strip in the corner behind the crown molding. It should be secured to the ceiling joists, not the top wall plate.

I always install an angled filler strip along the entire length of each wall that fills up the hollow spot created by the angled crown molding. 

You can almost always make a perfect strip cutting a 2x2 piece of lumber at a 45-degree angle with a table saw.

Drive a test nail about one-half inch below the ceiling at random locations to see if you can find this top plate. With this strip in place, you can easily and quickly nail the crown molding in place without using a divining rod or mystic powers to locate wall studs or ceiling joists.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local carpenters who specialize in crown molding.

Remember, my Crown Molding eBook has complete step-by-step instructions with tons of color photographs that show you exactly how to cut crown molding. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee!

Column 234

Rain on Framing Lumber

Posted on by Tim Carter
Framing Lumber

You may be upset at all the water on the new wood, but there’s little to fret about. Photo Credit: Seth Pabst

Rain on Framing Lumber TIPS

DEAR TIM: I'm having a new house built and it's been raining for a week. The roof is partially framed and every piece of lumber and all the flat OSB is soaked.

My builder says this is normal and I still get my ten-year warranty. Is it okay for a house to get wet while it's being built? Will it hurt the lumber?

What can be done to prevent mold and rot that probably will happen? What did you do to protect the homes you built? Seth P., Titusville, FL

DEAR SETH: Here's the good news.

Trees Grow In Rain

The lumber that is being used to build your home came from trees that were out in the rain all the time as they grew. I'll grant you it had a protective layer of bark that works very well to protect the wood in the center of the trunk.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local rough framing carpenters.

Realize it takes quite a bit of time for lumber to start to decay from water.

No O² - No Rot

You'd probably be surprised to know that lumber that is submersed in fresh water can be in great shape and rot-free for hundreds of years. This happens in lakes that have cold water at the bottom. As we all know, there's virtually no air or oxygen under water as well.

You need oxygen, water and warm temperatures to get wood to rot fairly fast.

Prized Catches

Timbered logs are routinely salvaged that never made it to sawmills over a hundred years and these logs are prized pieces of wood. Not too long ago, I knew of at least one company that did nothing but salvage old logs from the bottom of a few of the Great Lakes here in the USA.

This lumber was old growth timber and highly prized. It was in near perfect condition once raised from the depths of the lake-bed.

The wood rot you're familiar with happens in the presence of water and oxygen.

Relax, Take A Vali....

Your framing lumber and the oriented strand board (OSB) are going to be fine. The glues used to make OSB are water-resistant because the manufacturers know that virtually no one can build a home that won't get wet before the roof and siding is applied.

Houses I built got wet routinely during the framing process and I never had an issue.

20 Percent

Wood rot can and will start when the moisture content of the wood reaches 20 percent. But wood rot is a slow process where the fungi start to grow and feed on the cellulose in the wood.

The wood needs to remain damp and wet all the time for wood rot to advance. It's a much better likelihood that you'll start to see mold growth in as little as 48 hours as mold spores are everywhere on your home construction site.

Clean Job Site

To minimize or eliminate any chance of damage, you need to get rid of the water as fast as possible. This means the job site needs to be clean. All scraps of lumber, sawdust, etc. need to be off the OSB.

The OSB floors should be swept clean each day after work concludes. This debris can trap water and hold it against the OSB.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local rough framing carpenters.

Sweep Standing H²O

You want all the lumber to dry out as fast as possible after each rain. Standing water on the OSB needs to be swept away. Some OSB panels are created that have drainage slot in the tongues to help get rid of water.

Raise & Cover

Lumber on the job site that's in piles needs to be covered and up off the ground. You don't want to wrap the lumber like you would a sandwich with plastic. It needs to breathe.

It's key that the lumber is up off the ground at least 4 inches, if possible, so that air can get under the stacked lumber. Try to create a storage method that mimics a rain fly on a camping tent.

You want the sides of the stacked lumber exposed to the air but protected so rainfall can't hit the lumber.

Sealed OSB

Newer building products are available for subfloors that contain resins that protect the wood fibers from absorbing any water. These are great materials to use and I'd absolutely use them on any home I was building today.

Seal Untreated OSB

One thing I used to do when I was building was to spend the extra money and apply a clear penetrating water repellant to the plywood and OSB I used on the floors. I never worried about the sheathing on walls or roofs because water rapidly ran off and never collected there.

Before any walls were built on a subfloor, I'd blow off all saw dust, pour out the clear water repellant and apply it with a large paint roller on a pole. It only took about 30 minutes to do an average subfloor. The water repellant prevented swelling of plywood and untreated OSB.

Stain Solver Mold Cleaner

Oxygen Bleach

Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.

Once your house is under roof and there's little chance of the lumber getting wet, you may want to do some first aid and preventative care. If you do have mold growing on the lumber, you can clean it easily with Stain Solver.

It's a pure certified organic powder you mix with warm water. Using a hand-pump sprayer, you apply the solution to any mildew you see.

You can also use chlorine bleach, but many complain about its fumes and toxicity to nearby plants and vegetation.

Stain Solver is Made in the USA with USA ingredients. It has no odor and will do an excellent job of cleaning mold. Once the lumber is clean and dry, you can then decide if you want to prevent wood rot in case the wood somehow gets wet after you move in.

Borates Are Amazing

You can prevent wood rot by saturating the framing lumber with borates. These are safe chemicals to use around humans and pets.

borate powder

This is a 25-pound pail. You'll use this much to treat all the lumber in your new home. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER THIS GREAT PRODUCT.

Borate is a white powder that dissolves in water just like Stain Solver. You apply it to the wood with the same hand-pump sprayer.

This can be accomplished now while the framing lumber is accessible by spraying it with borate solutions. Borate chemicals are not toxic to humans or animals, but they are very toxic to many species of wood rot fungi and termites. You spray the lumber and OSB using a the same garden sprayer.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local rough framing carpenters.

Column 1107

Black Spots on Deck Boards

Posted on by Tim Carter
broadwalk next lake

This is Jim's boardwalk. That's a lot of scrubbing. Good news! No more scrubbing! Keep reading. © Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Black Spots on Deck Boards TIPS

DEAR TIM: I’ve got 1,500 square feet of lakefront boardwalk made from composite decking. The brand is Trex Accents. It started developing black spots within two years of the install.

I’m mad as heck about this as I thought I’d have a maintenance-free deck for life. I’m not able to get any help from the manufacturer nor the the big box retailer that I bought it from.

It’s going to cost me $20,000 to replace it. Can you help me at all? Jim C., Eaton, OH

DEAR JIM: I’ve got great news for you. You’re not going to have to replace that composite decking. I’ve also got a small dose of tough love too.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local deck cleaning companies.

Half-Truth Claims

Let’s start with a story. I remember years ago when two products were introduced, both had to do with decks. I can clearly remember seeing a counter placard at Hyde Park Lumber Company in Cincinnati, Ohio that said, “Rot-Proof and Maintenance-FREE Deck Lumber”. It was advertising the new copper-chromate arsenic (CCA) lumber for deck framing and deck boards.

We all know how that turned out. You did have to seal the decks every two years and the lumber did rot.

I also remember similar early claims by the manufacturers of composite decking material. As a member of the working press, I was inundated for years by the public relations companies spreading the word about these miracle products.

My Black Spots

My own home here in New Hampshire, built by someone else not me, had this generation one composite decking that did fade and did develop deep black spots. It also allowed algae to grow on it. Millions of other homeowners did the slow burn like you’re doing as they discovered you do have to maintain the decking.

I permanently solved my problem last summer by ripping up all my old generation one Trex and replaced it with Trex Transcends decking.

The Transcends line has a solid plastic cap so no wood fibers are exposed on the visible portions of the boards.

Maintenance-Free Myth

There’s no such thing as maintenance-free when it comes to any outdoor product. The reasons are many. For starters, the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays are so powerful they break apart metal atomic bonds. So simple paint, plastic or wood molecules and fibers are child’s play for the sun.

closeup tex black spots

Here's a closeup of Jim's Trex Accents. You can see the dark spots. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW to BUY THE PRODUCT YOU NEED TO STOP THE SPOTS!

Spores Everywhere

Mother Nature is also quite adept at showering everything outdoors with mold spores, algae, dirt, diesel soot, dust, etc. Add water to this slew of ingredients and you’ve got perfect conditions for mildew, mold and algae growth on any surface.

Deck Cleaning Video

Watch the following video to show you why pressure washers hurt wood decks and how Stain Solver oxygen bleach is the better method.

Periodic Cleaning

Oxygen Bleach

Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.

At the very least, maintenance involves periodic cleaning. You can clean some things with regular liquid dish soap and water. Tougher stains from barbecue grills, tree sap, mold, mildew and algae may need Stain Solver, a powerful powdered oxygen bleach you mix with water.

Stain Solver will not hurt any vegetation near the boardwalk nor any fish or other wildlife in the lake. It's certified organic and Made in the USA with USA ingredients.

You mix Stain Solver with warm tap water, stir until dissolved and then apply with a hand-pump sprayer. Work in the early morning allowing the Stain Solver solution to work on it's own for 15-30 minutes before scrubbing and rinsing.

The issue in your case is your composite deck, and several other brands, contain untreated lumber fibers that are encapsulated with recycled plastic. However, not all the wood gets coated with the plastic and as I mentioned earlier, the sun breaks apart the plastic exposing the wood.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local deck cleaning companies.

Wood + Water + Spores = Mildew

Mix wood, spores and water and you get black spots. You can clean them off, but the spots come back because the mold and mildew spores are constantly floating down onto the deck and you have a nearly constant supply of water. Overnight dew that covers everything outdoors many days out of the year is perhaps the biggest source of the problem.

I think you can get some peace of mind, but it’s going to take a little periodic work on your part. Fortunately it’s easy to do.

Clipper Ship Clue

Years ago I had a fascination with clipper ships. I have two boxes filled with small parts of two ships I intend to build when I’m retired - the Cutty Sark and the Thermopylae. Both of these tea clippers had copper plating on their hulls.

Copper is a natural biocide. It prevented barnacles and other organisms from growing on the wood hulls of these fast ships. This nasty growth would slow other ships and reduce the owner’s profits.

Apply Copper Sulfate

You can introduce this copper to your boardwalk in a way that should not harm anything that’s next to the boardwalk. I’d clean the decking first and then apply a mist of copper sulfate solution to the decking.

copper sulfate

This is exactly what you need to keep algae, mildew and mold from decking and patios. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY IT.

Copper sulfate is readily available and farmers have used it for decades. It controls fungus diseases, makes up for copper deficiencies in animals, and other things. If you drink wine, then you have to appreciate copper sulfate! Vintners use copper sulfate.

I’d mix up a solution and put it in a garden hand-pump sprayer. Set the nozzle tip to a fine mist. On a sunny warm day, spray the surface of the decking. Minimize overspray. The solution will soak into the wood fibers and possibly the tiny voids of the decking.

The only unknown is how often you need to respray. It could be once every six weeks, but it’s far easier to do than scrubbing that decking. Good luck!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local deck cleaning companies.

Column 1183