Septic Tank Maintenance

Your septic system can last over 200 years if sized correctly and maintained on a regular basis. This number was determined by experts at Colorado State University. Here are some important points that will help you get 200 years or more from your septic system.

Do not pour any harmful chemicals, toxic substances, anti-bacterial soap, solvents, etc. into your septic system. These things simply kill the bacteria!

Don't send ANY solid articles into the septic tank that will displace water! This means cat litter, sanitary napkins, cigarette filters, sand, lots of dirt, etc.

Minimize or eliminate the introduction of cooking grease or oils that go down your drains. Pour these into a glass jar and dispose of with your normal trash.

Space out your water usage. Do different tasks on different days. Introduction of vast amounts of water into the septic tank moves the solid waste particles into the drainfield pre-maturely!

Keep a good stand of vegetation over the drainfield. The roots of the plants help to aerate the soil.

Never compact the soil on top of the drain field.

Pipe all surface water and roof downspout water away from the drainfield. Flooded drainfields can lead to massive pollution problems.

Absolutely have your system inspected by a qualified septic service company. Watch how they measure for sludge.

Keep accurate records of your septic service. Note the length of time between service intervals and how much sludge was removed from the tank.

If you know where your septic tank and drain field lies, map it! Keep this drawing in a safe place and use it as a tool to keep your drainfield in tip-top shape. The map will allow you to keep heavy trucks, downspout drainage, etc. away from your drainfield.

Author's Note: We've received other questions with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Howard Stein of Oklahoma City, OK, regarding his home septic system.

"We have ten inches of snow and the temperature is near zero Fahrenheit. It will stay like this for several days.  Is it safe to use our washing machine (doing regular laundry) in this frigid weather since we have a septic tank and fear that the "arms" cannot properly dispose of large volumes of water into the ground?  Many thanks for your help."

Howard, typically in most septic systems, the tank and drainage fields are located well below the frost line.

Related Articles:   Septic Tank Garbage Disposal,  Garbage Disposal for Septic Tank Manufacturer,  Safe Septic Tank Additives,  Disposals Harm Septic Systems - Garbage!

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Septic Disposal Manufacturer

I know you are going to hate me, but at this point in time, there appears to be only one company that makes a garbage disposal specifically for septic systems. I surmise that engineers at other companies are already developing similar machines that will not violate the patent rights of the company that introduced this new and exciting product.

The septic disposal is made by In-Sink-Erator, Emerson Electric Co.. They are the world's leading disposal manufacturer - in fact, the founder of the company, John Hammes, developed the first garbage disposal in his basement in 1927 using a tin snips and soldering iron. He invested 10 years of his time refining the disposal concept and decided to formally launch the business in 1937. During his first year in business, he sold a total of 52 hand made disposals. That is a whopping 1 disposal per week! This story reminds me of how a giant oak tree begins from a tiny acorn!

I have been a licensed master plumber for nearly 10 years. Before that time and during the past ten years, I have installed hundreds of In-Sink-Erator regular disposals. They truly make a fine product. I have never had to perform a service call due to a defective motor, grinders, etc. The only problem I ever had was when a helper forgot to remove the drain inlet plug for the dishwasher drain tube. Of course, this was an operator error, not a problem with the actual disposal!

The new septic disposal comes with a powerful 1/2 Hp induction motor that rotates the grinding disc at 1,725 rpm. As with all In-Sink-Erator products, they simply twist into place on the easy-to-install sink strainer. The grind chamber is corrosion proof and the actual grinders are stainless steel.

The unique Bio-Charge cartridge that contains the beneficial bacteria snaps easily into place on the side of the disposal. Once in place, the disposal automatically injects the proper amount of enzymes with each load of food that is ground up. A refill bottle of Bio-Charge will retail for approximately $8.95. The disposal retails for $179 in most major markets in America. You should be able to find the disposal at all major home center stores and any plumbing supply house that carries In-Sink-Erator disposals.

Related Articles:   Septic Tank Maintenance,  Septic Tank Garbage Disposal,  Safe Septic Tank Additives,  Disposals Harm Septic Systems - Garbage!

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Safe Septic Tank Additives

Tens of millions of people utilize septic systems to take care of sanitation needs on their property. It is no wonder that different additive companies target this market in an effort to push/sell products. Some of the additives are safe and cause no harm to the bacteria within the tank. Some additives destroy the bacteria.

The State of Washington took a leadership role regarding this topic. In 1993, the State Legislature found that "... most additives do not have a positive effect on the operation of on-site systems, and can contaminate groundwater aquifers, render septic drainfields dysfunctional, and result in costly repairs to homeowners ..." To make a long story short, the State of Washington's Department of Health started to study additives. They determined which ones were safe for septic systems with the intention of protecting consumers. Those additives that were approved are NOT warranted by the State of Washington to work. The approval simply means that the additive will not HARM the bacteria within the tank. For that reason alone, the results of their work are significant. At least you know the safe ones to buy. You then have to judge on your own if they work.

If you want the most updated list of additives that they deem to be safe, call, write or visit their web site:

• Washington State Department of Health - Community Environmental Health Program
  P. O. Box 47826
  Olympia, Washington 98504-7826
  www.doh.wa.gov

The most recently approved "safe" septic system additives, as of January, 2007, are as follows:

• Aquaterra GHSD-1 and LS-1472
  Aquaterra Biochemical Corporation

• Bio Blast
  Dr. Ricketts Nutritionals
• Biocharge
  In-sink-erator Division
  Emerson Electric Company
• Bi-Chem SM700
  Novozymes Biologicals Inc.
• Bio Choice ES
  Osprey Biotechnics
• Bio-Clean
  Kinzie & Payne Biochemical Corporation
• Bio-Green
  Delta Bioproducts International
• Bio Kleer S
  Bio Aqua Enterprises Inc.

• Drain Care Liquid Septic Tank Treatment
  Enforcer Products Inc.

• Drano Plumbing System Buildup Remover
  S C Johnson & Son Inc.
• DWT 360 Septic Tank Maintainer / WT 360 Waste Degrader
  Tri-Synergy Inc.
• Eco-Save ES-700
  Eco-Save Products
  JWH Distributing
• Enviro-Culture
  Bio-Energy Systems
  Inc.
• Grease Tank Treatment
  Roebic Laboratories Inc.
• Greenpig Septic Tank Treatment
  Greenpig
  Inc.
• GSI 4000
  General Supply Inc.
• HMS Septic Tank Maintenance
  Greenpig
  Inc.
• Instant Power Septic Shock
  Scotch Corp.
• Instant Power Septic System Treatment
  Scotch Corp.
• Liquid Alive
  Dymon Inc.
• L.E.A.D. Enzyme Digestant
  Formula Corp.
• Liquid Live
  Formula Corp.
• Liquid Plumr Septic System Treatment
  Clorox Co.
• Microbe Lift
  Ecological Laboratories
• Microbe-Lift Septic Tank Powder Packets
  Ecological Laboratories Inc.
• Microbe-Lift/ST Septic Digestant
  Ecological Laboratories Inc.
• Plumb-Clean
  Kinzie & Payne Biochemical Corp.
• Pro-Pump Cold Weather Powdered Digestant
  Ecological Laboratories Inc.
• Pro-Pump Powdered Digestant for Septic Tank and Leachfields
  Ecological Laboratories Inc.
• Pro-pump Septic Digestant
  Ecological Laboratories Inc.
• Push
  Betco Corporation
• Rid-X Professional Septic System Treatment + Drain Maintainer
  Reckitt Benckiser Inc.
• Roebic K-37 Septic Tank Treatment
  Roebic Laboratories Inc.
• Roebic K-47
  Roebic Laboratories Inc.
• Roebic K-57
  Roebic Laboratories Inc.
• Roebic K-87 Soap Digester FMP Soap Degrader
  Roebic Laboratories Inc.
• Roebic K-97 Mainline Cleaner
  Roebic Laboratories Inc.
• Roebic Liquid Grease Degrader
  Grease Trap Treatment
  Roebic Laboratories Inc.
• Roto-Rooter Septic & Cesspool System Treatment (Dry)
  Changing Paradigms
• Roto-Rooter Septic & Cesspool System Treatment (Liquid)
  Changing Paradigms
• Roto-Rooter Treatment for Septic Tanks and Cesspools
  Roto-Rooter Corp.
• Sea-Zyme Septic Tank Digester 2000
  Century Products
• Septic Helper 2000
  Shar Lane Distributing Co.
• Septic-Scrub Drainfield Flow Restorer
  Arcan Enterprises, Inc.
• Septic Tank Aids
  Heartland Labs Division of A&V, Inc.
• Septonic Septic Tank Additive
  AHT Field & Co.
• Shactivate Sewage Digester
  Shar Environmental Products Inc.
• Sludgehammer Blend
  Pirana ABG Inc.
• Super Pack Bacteria
  Septiclear Inc.
• Ultra Green 3 Enzyme Cleaner
  Iron Out Inc.

Author's Note: We've received other questions with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Howard Stein of Oklahoma City, OK, regarding his home septic system.

"We have ten inches of snow and the temperature is near zero Fahrenheit. It will stay like this for several days.  Is it safe to use our washing machine (doing regular laundry) in this frigid weather since we have a septic tank and fear that the "arms" cannot properly dispose of large volumes of water into the ground?  Many thanks for your help."

Howard, typically in most septic systems, the tank and drainage fields are located well below the frost line.

Related Articles:   Septic Tank Maintenance,  Septic Tank Garbage Disposal,  Garbage Disposal for Septic Tank Manufacturer,  Disposals Harm Septic Systems - Garbage!

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Take a Tour of Your Toilet

Toilet problems are frustrating. To make matters worse, when the average person peers inside a toilet tank, they recoil in fright. Not from the water, but from the jumbled assortment of parts and such.

While seemingly complex, the working parts of a toilet are somewhat simple. There are really only three main components:

• The Fill Valve or Ball Cock
• The Flapper Valve
• The Overflow Tube

The Fill Valve is the automatic device that allows water to rush into the tank each time the toilet is flushed. A float triggers this action. As soon as the water level in the tanks drops, the float drops and the fill valve opens. Old fashioned fill valves had a cumbersome float ball on an arm. They are still made! They can be tough to adjust and over time the float can become waterlogged. Newer fill valves have sleek designs that disguise the float. The good news is that these fill valves are inexpensive and simple to install.

Click here to watch a video on how a toilet works.

The fill valve also supplies water to the bowl as the tank refills. It does this via a small flexible water tube that runs from the base of the valve to the top of the overflow tube.

The flapper device controls the flow of water from the tank into the toilet bowl. When operating perfectly, the flapper rises up when you turn the flush handle. It actually stays in the open position for 5 to 10 seconds and then drops back down stopping the flushing action and allowing the water level in the tank to rise again.

Flappers that stick open cause the water to run and run. A flapper may stick because of sand or grit on its hinge. The chain that lifts the flapper may be old and worn out. In any case, they are easy to replace.

The overflow tube is a fixed device in the center of the tank. It serves two functions. After each flush, water flows into this tube to fill the bowl with water as the tank refills. The tube also acts as an emergency water escape route in case the fill valve does not shut off. Water can flow into the tube and down into the bowl until such time as you shut off the water.

Emergency Shutoff!

This has happened to everyone: You flush the toilet and water doesn't leave the bowl. Water starts to creep up the toilet bowl rim! A huge, gross mess is going to happen if you don't stop the flow of the water into the bowl! You can do this if you react quickly. Remove the tank lid and immediately place your hand into the tank and force the flapper valve back down onto the seat. This will stop tank water from entering the bowl. Water may still flow into the bowl from the water supply tubing that feeds into the overflow tube. This is a minor amount of water in most cases, but if you feel the bowl is about to overflow, then pull the little water pipe out of the overflow tube and redirect its flow into the tank. Don't worry about sticking your hand in the tank water. It is pure and fresh! It is the same water you drink each day or use to brush your teeth! The sidewalls of the tank often get stained over time from dissolved minerals in the water. This is why the water appears yucky even though it is fresh.

In fact, if you wake up one day and your local water main has broken leaving you high and dry, you actually do have water! Dip some water from the tank to wash your face or brush your teeth. I know this sounds crazy, but the water is perfectly fine.

Give it a Try

Take the lid off your toilet tank and putter around. See how things work. Try to force the flapper down. Be prepared!

Phantom Flusher

CLICK HERE to read how to Catch The Phantom Flusher

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Toilets need regular maintenance. They are probably one of the most frequently used mechanical objects found in the residential home. They rank right up there with the refrigerator door hinges, kitchen faucet and television channel control knob with respect to number of uses each day. If your toilet is making you crazy, here are some things you can do that will make it work like new.

1. The Night Moaner

As people retire for the night to sleep, water pressure in municipal water systems begins to rise. This increase in pressure can be transferred to a worn ball cock valve and cause it to vibrate ever so slightly. This is the moaning you are hearing. Get a new valve.

2. Ghost Flushing

Does your toilet tank start to fill on its own? In other words, run for 5 or 10 seconds and then stop? This can almost always be traced to one of two problems: poorly fitting/leaking flapper and/or a refill tube that is too long. A worn flapper or corroded flapper seat will cause water to slowly drain from the tank into the toilet bowl. After an hour or two the water level drops enough and the fill valve kicks on. This same thing can happen if the flexible water line that runs from the base of the fill valve to the inside of the overflow tube is too long. This will siphon water from the tank. New fill valves come with a special clip that holds the end of the water line up and ensures that water will stay in the tank where it belongs.

3. Multiple Flushes

Do you flush your toilet and get two for the price of one? If so, the water level in the tank may be too high. Adjust the float control on the fill valve and try to drop the water level in the toilet tank one inch or so. Do a trial and error test to get the water level just right.

4. Partial Flushes

You flush the toilet and get cheated. The flapper valve can get waterlogged over time and flop down too quickly. The chain that connects between the flapper valve and the flush handle may be too tight. Adjust it one link at a time. The water level in the toilet tank may be too low. Adjust the fill valve so that more water enters the tank. You may have a first generation low flush toilet. If so, you are toast! These toilets have basic design flaws. They simply don't have enough energy to flush the toilet bowl correctly. If you have one of these 1.6 gallon flush nightmares, hold on, help might be on the way. It appears that the 1992 law requiring these bad boys might be repealed. If this happens, 3.5 gallon toilets may come back.

5. Whistle While it Works

As the toilet tank fills and is almost done, it makes all sorts of high pitched noise, right? You probably have an old fashioned ball cock fill valve with a float ball on an arm. These valves close slowly as the water level rises and the valve starts to vibrate as this happens. The solution is a new fill valve. These new valves stay open completely until the toilet tank is filled. The shut off is instantaneous.

6. Tough Toilet Bowl Stains

Do you have stains in your toilet bowl that just won't budge? If so, DON'T use abrasive cleaners! Use white vinegar or muriatic acid to clean the bowl. White vinegar is safer, but takes longer. Muriatic acid can clean a toilet bowl within minutes. Be careful!

7. Toilet Bowl Water Level Drops

After you walk away from the toilet and the tank has filled, does the water level mysteriously drop? If so, two things can be wrong. The toilet may be partially clogged. The clog can actually cause a siphon and pull water from the bowl. The other possibility is more severe. There can actually be a crack or small defect in the colon of the toilet. This is the channel that water passes through to get to the drain pipe. A colon crack or defect means it is time for a new toilet.

8. Low Energy Flushes

If you have hard water, the water release holes in the lip of the bowl my be clogged with hard water deposits. Pour a quart of muriatic acid down the overflow tube in the tank to clean these holes. You should hear a sizzling sound if the deposits are heavy. The acid will not harm the toilet. You can also try to open these holes with a toothpick if you do not have acid.

9. Shaking Toilet

Does your toilet rock when you sit on it? If so, the grout between the toilet and the floor needs to be replaced. Grout should be used instead of caulk. Caulk is flexible and will allow toilet movement.

10. Water Leaks at Base of Toilet

If you see water leaking around the base of the toilet or in the room below when it is flushed, the wax gasket between the toilet and the drain pipe flange has to be changed. This is not a DIY friendly task although the TV shows make it seem so! If you tackle this, make sure you have access to another toilet as you may be opening a can of worms!

11. Shut Off Valve Leaks After You Service the Toilet

After you have turned the water on to the toilet, the pesky little valve develops a leak around the handle. To solve this problem, use an adjustable wrench to tighten the outer packing nut that surrounds the valve stem. Just turn it clockwise a little bit to stop the leak.

12. Water Supply Tube Leaks

The supply tube between the toilet tank and the floor or wall leaks at one or both ends. You need to use a flexible tube and make sure that it is entering the valve at a 90 degree angle. If not, the compression ring will leak for sure! Tighten the nut at the toilet first and then make sure the supply tube enters the valve at a 90 degree angle. Then, tighten the compression nut at the valve.

13. Save Water With Brick?

Installing brick in a toilet tank to displace water may help save a little water, but it often causes greater problems. Drop one while installing it, and you will crack the tank. The brick can also interfere with the operation of the moving parts in the tank.

14. Loose Toilet Seats

Inexpensive toilets seats often have inferior tightening bolts. Buy a quality toilet seat and follow the instructions to get a tight fit.

15. Slow or Noisy Refill Water Flow

If the water entering the toilet enters slowly, the shut off valve may be only partially open. Check to make sure this valve is open all the way. If water rushes into a toilet tank and you think it is going to explode, try to adjust the shut off valve so that the water flow is more controlled.

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Electronic and Magnetic Water Treatment

Magnets seem to be the rage lately. Some people claim they can promote rapid healing of injured tissue. Other people claim they can make hard water soft. There are believers and non-believers of both statements. The Water Quality Association has formed a special task force to come to some sort of conclusion with regard to magnets and water. Their report is due by mid to end of 2001. I can't wait to see the results.

An engineer friend of mine tested a unit one year ago. His water was very hard - nearly 13 grains. After installing the unit according to manufacturers directions, he could not tell a difference in water quality. On the other hand, a friend of mine in Colorado recently installed one. Here is what she had to say after the device was working for about three weeks: "...It's been installed a few weeks now. The reaction from my friend who hated our un-softened water was that it was better. I'm seeing essentially no salt residue from water spots on top of the coffee pot, faucet handles and humidity tray for orchids."

These two bits of data are consistent with what many say. A system may work one place but not another. Water chemistry, water flow rates through the piping, water hardness and temperature all affect the performance of a certain device.

The U. S. Department of Energy publishes periodic Technology Alerts. They happen to have one about magnetic and electronic water softeners on the Internet. It is an extremely well written and detailed report on this topic. IF you don't have Internet access, then you MUST go to a friend's house or to the library to get this report. It is definitely worth the trouble. Pay particular attention to the text in the Abstract. Read it twice! Then read the 7th paragraph in the first section "About the Technology".

In 2001 the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers published Public Works Technical Bulletin 420-49-34 titled Magnetic Water Treatment. It's available on the web in PDF format. The purpose of this bulletin is "to transmit information on a demonstration of magnetic and electronic devices marketed as effective alternatives for scale prevention in water systems."

Certified Water Softener Manufacturers

The Water Quality Association (WQA) has a Gold Seal program where manufacturers submit products for independent testing. Those that pass deliver top performance. Be sure to buy a softener that has the WQA Gold Seal! To find a list of these manufacturers, go to the WQA website and click on Product Certification.

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Hard water can really be a nuisance. If you have exceptionally hard water, scale buildup can cause premature failure of water heaters, water supply lines and significant water spotting problems around the house wherever water dries and leaves the water soluble minerals behind.

Certain parts of the United States have naturally occurring soft water, but they are by far in the minority. Many, many folks in the USA have hard water to one degree or another.

Traditional Timers

A vast majority of water softeners rely on electricity to operate. The primary mechanism that consumes electricity is the timer that starts the periodic regeneration process. Water softeners operate by ion exchange. They pull the hard water chemicals out of the water and replace them with salt ions. After so many gallons of water flow through the softener, the resin bed fills with hard water minerals. The timer kicks on at a predetermined time and the water softener back flushes all of the hard water chemicals out and fills the resin bed with new salt ions.

A Waste Potential

Traditional timers can cause problems. What happens if the resin bed is only 60 percent filled with hard water chemicals? If the system regenerates when the timer turns on, then you waste electricity and salt. A better option might be a softener that does not use electricity and only regenerates when the resin bed needs to be back flushed. The Kinetico Company makes a water softener that does just this. It is water powered. This technology makes it an on-demand system. It creates soft water as you need it and for how long you need it. It has the capability to make soft water indefinitely as long as you supply the unit with the necessary salt.

Freedom From Timers

Traditional softeners require you to guess your water usage. You may be lucky and guess right. What happens if you need to use more water than usual? Well, if you don't re-calibrate the softener, then you will not have soft water.

The Kinetico unit solves this problem with a dual tank design. As one tank fills with hard water deposits, the second tank takes over as the first one regenerates. This allows you to use as much water as you want with little or no worry of ever running out of soft water.

Magnetic Units

Are you interested in buying a magnetic water softening unit? If so, keep several things in mind. These devices do not remove anything from the water. High energy electrical fields that surround water lines after the magnets have treated the water may reverse the effects of the magnets. This portion of the water treatment field is currently in the midst of a heated controversy. Personally I don't know who to believe. I tend to think that there is some truth on both sides. This is based upon actual user feedback I have received. Some devices work for some people and other devices seem to do nothing.

The Water Quality Association (WQA) should have a good answer by the end of 2001. Expect a fair report to be issued on the performance of residential magnetic and electronic water softening devices.

We already know that industrial and commercial magnetic devices work. But, the same can't be said for all household devices. It is my hope that the WQA's report uncovers just what is required to make a magnetic system work on just about any residential system. There is no doubt that many people would be interested as long as they could count on 24/7 performance.

Related Column - Magnetic Water Softeners

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