Painting Tips

So you want your upcoming paint job to really be first class? Well, who doesn't? Painting always seems so easy, yet when completed the results are not often the greatest.

Prep Work - - It's the Key!

By far the most unglamorous part of painting is the work you should do before you pop the top to the paint can. In the trade it's called prep work. There is so much to do to achieve that really professional look. Surely you don't think it happens by accident?

First, you need to always start with clean surfaces. Invariably it says this on a paint can, but few people go to the trouble to wash walls. Remember, paints are simply glues. They stick to things.

Filling holes and patching cracks: The paint can only do so much. In fact, many people think that paint can fill or bridge small cracks, because they see how thick the paint is. Well, I can understand where this comes from. Paint companies know that much of the vehicle - the component of paint that makes it a liquid - in the paint evaporates into the air as the paint dries. This is why they recommend applying paint three times thicker - referred to as mil thickness - than the finished dry mil thickness. More on this in a moment. Take the time to fill all holes and cracks. The best time to do this, believe it or not, is at night time. Holes and lines show up much more when sunlight is not pouring through a window or door. Try this yourself, and see if I'm not telling you the truth!

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Caulking

This is where most people miss the boat. The pros use caulk like a runner drinks water. Lots of it. Each and every crack between woodwork and wall and woodwork and woodwork must be filled for that first class appearance. I always recommend priming the areas which are to be painted first. This way, the cracks always seem to be better defined.

Caulking is an art. For interior purposes, I recommend using an acrylic caulk, matched closely in color to what you are painting. Cut the end of the tube close to the size of the cracks you are caulking. Apply the caulk, 2 feet at a time. Wipe the bead with your finger to smooth the joint and to press it into the crack. Then *now here is the important part* wipe the part you just caulked with a damp sponge. This removes excess caulk from the areas adjacent to the crack. This step is often overlooked by the novice.

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